Day three of our four day trip to Tokyo arrived, and Rainer and I woke up still feeling a little bit tired from our long walks the previous day (and a night of more than a few drinks in Kagurazaka). Probably feeling a lot better than Angie or Yas were, though, as they were undoubtedly still climbing down from the peak of Mt. Fuji. Forcing ourselves out of bed, we determined to make the most of the day.
Tsukiji Fish Market: Fail Trip
Following our breakfast (at a Subway, no less), the day's itinerary got off to a rather unfortunate start when Rainer and I made our way to the Tsukiji Fish Market. Tragically, it wasn't open on a Sunday - which was exactly when we had chosen to visit. Whoops. We maybe should have double-checked that.
After taking an hour or so to travel there, we very quickly found ourselves spending the next hour or so heading on to our next destination.
Harajuku
Harajuku station.
Harajuku! At last, somewhere both distinctly Japanese and definitively thriving with people. Harajuku is famously at it's peak on Sundays (something which we had researched), and we had arrived just before lunch-time: just as the streets started to fill.
The central Takeshita street.
Harajuku is famous for the iconic dress sense of the teens who flock to the streets there to unwind. The clothing on display can only be described as eclectic. Young men and women look like they've walked straight out of an anime or manga series and onto the streets of Tokyo (you may be aware of the Gwen Stefani song, Harajuku Girls, which talks at length rather glowingly about their "wicked style"). I can't help but assume the extremity of these styles is a natural reaction to Japan's notorious culture of "conformity", which is criticized for discouraging self-expression and "standing out".
Rainer and I wandered at a rather relaxed pace down the main Takeshita Street of Harajuku, constantly stopping and trying to comprehend in the bizarre Willy Wonka-esque environment. It was noticeable how many visibly foreign tourists were out amongst the crowds, as well as quite a few who'd dressed up to join in the occasion. It was all very unusual.
Whit?
What the f*** is that?
After wandering through several streets and finding ourselves hungry for lunch, Rainer and I stopped at a small Italian restaurant just off the Ometesando avenue (just around the back of the Ometesando Hills complex). The food was great, but our starter was a rather odd green pea soup which was served cold. I can't say I was a big fan.
Ometesando Hills.
This one advertisement is stranger than everything else in Harajuku.
The Wanderers Return
Arriving back at Shinjuku station, we wandered over to meet a rather deflated looking Yas and Angie. The pair sat exhausted in front of the row of lockers as we crossed the street towards them. Even from a distance, I could see Angie's forehead had been sunburnt bright red. Both looked like they were in dire need of a rest, having had no sleep the night before and wilting in the summer sun.
Rainer and I dragged the pair back to our hotel, which was a bit of a trek for them and their blistered feet. We sat with them as they took turns in the showers and cleaned themselves up, feeling much better for having a lie down indoors. We took some time off our feet, while the pair dozed, before opting to head to a park for a quiet evening. Both Yas and Angie would be taking the night bus home, and we didn't want to do anything too strenuous.
No chuffed.
The pair picked themselves back up, and the four of us made our way to the nearby train station to get ourselves to Ueno Park.
An Evening in Ueno Park
The entrance to Ueno Park.
When we arrived it Ueno Park, it was already starting to get quite dark and late. I'd initially hoped to be able to have a small stroll around the zoo, but we'd arrived a little out of time, and decided we'd be better off getting dinner instead, to help Yas and Angie regain their energy.
We decided that our first port of call should instead be dinner, at a lovely Italian restaurant right next to the entrance of the park. We were all feeling a bit hungry, so indulging in pizza was a natural solution.
After dinner, we strolled lazily down towards the huge pond that is central to the park, which is filled with lily-pads. The park was definitely starting to become quieter now that the sun was setting, which felt nice, as we didn't have to contend with any crowds or noises. It was actually very peaceful.
Angie enjoys her ice-cream...
and holds a lemon-flavoured shaved-ice for me.
I was struck by just how many lily-pads filled the whole pond - which was actually a little bit more like a lake.
While the amount of lily-pads was certainly impressive, our experiences with the rest of the park were slightly less positive.
Several street vendors had stalls lined up along the side of the pond, all of which exhibited rather "questionable" items (including several stuffed animals). All of the objects seemed disorganised and the people somewhat impoverished. It seemed like the people selling their wares were poor, and trying to make ends meet. It was uncomfortable.
The worst thing we say, however, was a man who was using a monkey to perform tricks. The monkey - on a leash - was wearing a shirt and was being forced to jump through hoops and obstacles for the entertainment of spectators. The man himself was very rough with the animal, hitting it and tugging on it's rope, and generally just being very unpleasant. This sort of thing would be outright illegal back home, and it was horrific to realise just what we were watching.
We were all feeling quite depressed at this moment, but there was more to come. The most surreal moment occurred when, standing by the lake, I was approached by an elderly Japanese man who leaned over the railings next to me. He seemed to beckon to the fish in the water, who approached him with the expectation of food. Instead, he seemed to spit at them and giggle. Odd. We backed away rather slowly and quickly left him to it.
This guy spits at fish.
Despite having a lovely dinner, I have to say that our overall experience with Ueno Park was uncomfortable and sad. It exhibited a darker and more neglectful side to Tokyo, and one which definitely one which shouldn't be treated with pride.
We made our way back to the subway line to head back to the hotel, so that Angie and Yas could get their things and head on to the night bus. They definitely looked like they were wilting by this point.
Sleepy.
We ended up in a bit of a pickle regarding the night bus. We ran out of time to get Angie and Yas onto the night bus with their luggage, as they hadn't brought it all with them by the time we got to the station. Knowing we had only an hour or so before the bus departed, we split into teams of two to try and get the tickets and the luggage at the same time. I felt sorry for Angie, who ended up running back to the hotel with Rainer to get her stuff (despite having very sore knees), while Yas and I tried to purchase the tickets.
Luckily, it all worked out, but it was a bit tight.
Meanwhile, this happened.
Angie proves that she can balance a purse on her head.
Staredown.
Wannabe singers at Shinjuku station.
The night bus!
Finally heading home.
Late Night Ramen
We had only one day left on our four day trip to Tokyo, and we knew exactly where we'd be heading the next morning; right back to the Tsukiji Fish Market.
