At the top of the Konpira-san trail.
At the end of August last year, I still had three days of summer leave to take before the next school term kicked off in September. I'd originally been planning on using this time to pop over to Hong Kong, but it became apparent that I'd left it perhaps a little too late, and that this would no longer be a plausible option by the end of the month.
So, I simply took the last three days of the month off. Again, I thought about spending those days and the weekend doing a little five-day island tour around the Seto inland sea, but decided ultimately that a better way to spend my time was finishing off the edit on a long-standing film project of mine. You can see the fruits of that labour in the form of Fatal Attractions, which you can watch on YouTube here (you can also read about it on my Film Blog here). After two days of solid editing which finished off the film, I decided to treat myself on the Friday by heading off to Kotohira and finally visiting the famous mountain of Konpira-san.
The streets of Kotohira.
Kotohira is only about an hour away on the local train line for me, and had long been on my personal hit-list for staying in Kagawa. It's a small town which contains a famous mountain, which houses Shikoku's most iconic shrine; Konpira-san. The shrine actually houses elements of both Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, but was offiically declared to be a shrine during the Meiji Period. It's dedicated to sailors and seafarers, and is one of the most popular in all of Japan. Many other ALTs had recommended it to me, and I decided to spend a day experiencing it for myself.
Approaching the shrine is a daunting task, said to be one of the most grueling in all of Japan. A total of uphill 1368 steps stand between the traveller and their ultimate destination at the inner Okusha shrine. A daunting challenge in the intense summer heat of Kagawa, but I was very much up for it.
Beginning the climb.
Getting to the shrine in the first place initially seemed tricky, as I wasn't quite sure where to go from the station. A few other pedestrians were heading in the right direction, though, and I quickly stumbled upon arrows and signs leading me along the correct way. I accessed the path by heading through a very deserted (and small) shopping street, and was certain that I was heading the wrong way, but it turned out to be correct as the plentiful numbers of travellers at the exit of the arcade soon confirmed.
The shrine was very busy when I first arrived, and I was surprised to see that the start of the journey was predominantly lined with tourist shops and restaurants near the bottom of the shrine. I stopped at one of the stalls on my ascent to buy a drink from a local vendor, as I was already starting to sweat in the intense heat. I had one heck of a journey ahead of me, and I'd stocked up with two bottles of water, but I wanted to keep them for the climb rather than wasting them when I didn't need to.
Juice break.
The path to the main hall.
Steps. So many steps.
After about three quarters of an hour, I arrived at the main hall of the shrine. At first, I thought I'd reached my destination, and suddenly I thought; "Huh, that wasn't so bad." Plenty of other tourists had stopped and were taking photographs, and there was a beautiful ledge to stop and take photographs of the area surrounding Kotohira from. I was feeling rather pleased with myself, thinking that the challenge hadn't been too difficult at all. I hadn't realized, of course, that I had only climbed up the first 785 steps. I had reached the finishing point for a lot of people, but the true peak of the shrine lay another 583 steps ahead of me.
The Main Hall area.
A view of Kotohira.
The path continues.
This time, the route was much quieter. There were very few people around, and the steps were much steeper and overrun with vegetation. It was immediately clear that this route was much less well travelled, as the forest on each side of the path swelled and closed in on all sides, with the sky mostly visible by looking directly above rather than through the thick trees. It was also much more scenic and beautiful than the path I had travelled up until now. It was a much more intimate experience, even with the few other travellers who were trickling down around me as they descended from the path.
The walk to the top.
More stairs.
I took a short video from my time climbing this section, and you can see here just how hot I'm feeling from all of the heat (you can also hear quite a few cicadas). I swear that's the genuine sound of my footsteps, and that I didn't force the sound at all.
I soon realized that I had run out of water - despite bringing two full bottles with me! It was unfortunate, as I wasn't sure how much more I would still have to climb, but I decided to push on anyway. I was so close to the summit, and despite the heat I wasn't feeling too dehydrated. I carried on, and made it into the highest shrine only about twenty minutes later. All in all, the journey had taken me about an hour and a half.
At the inner shrine.
The "inner" shrine up here was absolutely lovely. It was a very small area, only a few feet across in each direction, with a small area for Shinto practitioners to pray. There was a small shop next to the shrine, where a man sold traditional Shinto trinkets; it wasn't tacky, and the objects on sale were all traditionally Japanese omamori (a kind of charm) and similar items. I picked up a couple of these as gifts, then sat back and just enjoyed the atmosphere.
The view from the top.
The small shop in the shrine.
It was incredibly peaceful up there. Every now and then, a couple or a few people would arrive and pray at the shrine, but mostly it was very quiet save for myself and the shopkeeper. It was a uniquely tranquil place.
A man comes to pray at the shrine and admire the view.
At one point, two local travellers were pointing up at something on the cliff wall above me. I followed their direction and found a couple of small, concealed demon faces in the wall. Yet another subtle feature of this beautiful area, and very easy to miss.
I stayed at the top of the shrine for a while as I got my breath back and enjoyed the atmosphere. However, night was starting to set in, and there was an ALT event back in Takamatsu that evening that I didn't want to be too late for. I stood up and casually made my way back down the mountain. The light stroll in the evening was much more steadily paced than my journey to the top, and I couldn't help but keep stopping repeatedly in order to take photographs of all the newly lit paper lanterns.
Beautiful.
Arriving at the base of the mountain, the once densely populated tourist area was cleared out completely by the time I arrived at the bottom. It felt like a ghost town; an almost eerie sensation, but also quite peaceful. I couldn't believe the contrast from earlier on in the day.
Peace and quiet.
I found a quiet little local restaurant where I popped in for a very traditional Japanese dinner, before jumping on the train back to Takamatsu.


