Winter in Kagawa, Japan

I thought I should talk about Winter in Japan; or rather, really just the the climate! As I come from Scotland, which typically has a reputation for being rather cold (which it is!), many people suspect that Japan would probably have a warmer climate, and that Winter in this country would be a milder and less chilly season. While Takamatsu doesn't get much snow at all (so no seasonal snowscapes or skiing, sadly!), and so one would be forgiven for thinking that the cold seasons here would have been considerably less cold than what I was used to.

I'm afraid to say that this is definitely not the case. This Winter has been, perhaps, the coldest I have ever experienced.

A familiar sight in homes across Japan; the lack of insulation

means the heat from an air-con becomes a room's only warmth.

 

My air-con remote turned up to 30°C.

Standard setting for me.

You'll remember that I've previously commented on the extreme heat in Summer-time. When I first arrived in Japan, the most immediately striking thing (other than the language shift and the cultural differences) was the vast temperature difference. While Scotland usually sees a bit of sunshine and a few barbecues, Japan overwhelmed me with the brutal heat that caused me to sweat like I'd never done so before in my life. It was just a tad overbearing... yet it seemed to promise that perhaps this would be a year-round trend; generally warmer temperatures and perhaps a comfortable Winter. Unfortunately, this was not the case. The pleasantly cooler climate of November was merely a deception; December, January and February in Japan are cold.

So, what's the problem?

As I understand it, Japanese buildings are consistently lacking in insulation. The reason for this was described to me as a fear that heavily insulated buildings would amplify the heat in Summer, and therefore the solution was just to bear with the cool Winters as they were. I don't know how legitimate this is, but it's certainly the most common and logical explanation I've been offered on the subject.

This sounds reasonable enough in theory, but in practice it means that waking up every morning can be a gruelling experience - leaving the comfort of the duvet causes a system shock and shivers to shoot through me every single morning. From my point of view, the lack of central heating in most buildings seems the most unforgivable; a standard feature of many Western homes, only a few buildings in Japan benefit from this seemingly commonplace solution adopted by the rest of the world. If you were expecting the school classrooms might have this feature, well, I'm afraid around 95% that I've experienced don't.

  

The only solution that is usually offered within the home is the common air-con system on which I was so dependant in the Summer months. In Winter, the needs are inverted, and so the air-con system is designed to allow the flow of hot air, too, and to generate heat in a confined area. This does wonders to warm the living room area, but does absolutely nothing to heat the corridor or bathroom areas, which are outside of my solitary air-con's range and remain chilled every morning and night. The condensation on the inside of my front door and fridge every morning is actually wet to the touch; an image that pretty much sums up the situation for me.

It's actually reached the point where now, everyday, I wake up ten minutes before my standard alarm time, turn on the air-con for heating, and wait ten minutes for the living room to warm up. Then, it's a gruelling psychological battle to open the door through to the hallway and sprint in my dressing gown and slippers - whilst freezing! - into the bathroom for the morning shower. Furthermore, work days have become dominated by an excessive need to drink tea, coffee and ocha, for fear of freezing without the consistent intake of hot fluids.

It staggers me that Japan operates every year with this same damn problem.

There is one shining beacon of light in this rather miserable situation, however; Heat-Tech!

 Heat-Tech from Uni Qlo!

 

Heat-Tech shirts and socks; essential for surviving

the cold at Winter - both outdoors and in!

Not to offer too much of a plug, but Heat-Tech (appropriately labelled as 'Japan Technology') is sold at Uni Qlo stores around the country. Basically, these clothes are fairly skin-tight vests (both long and short-sleeve), leg-warmers, underwear and socks that are designed to retain heat and fit comfortably underneath your regular clothing. I have seen a few other versions of the same style of clothing available from other retailers, but I decided to place my faith in this brand.

Thus far, it has helped considerably. Every day, almost without exception, I wear these clothes under my work clothes to school - in addition to a jumper and a heavy wooly coat, scarf and clothes (and occasionally a beanie hat). Usually, around four to five layers (and a double-pair of socks). It's still cold, yes, but it's made the Winter season just that little bit more bearable, and for that reason I heartily recommend these items to anyone either visiting or living in Japan at Winter. Many of my friends recently wenk to visit the famous annual Snow Festival (Yuki-matsuri) in Hokkaido, supposedly the coldest part of Japan. All I can say is that I hope they brought plenty of Heat-Tech along!

The climate has recently began to show steady signs of warming up again, recently; temperatures are chilly but not quite so brutal, and I can get away with wearing slightly less layers to work everyday. It's still cold, but at least I can feel a tad more comfortable on my early morning sprints to the shower.

Of course, once the Summer comes back, I certainly won't have to worry about being cold anymore. Undoubtedly, though, I'll be spending just as much time complaining about the heat!

Kozai Eikaiwa Updates (and a Trip to Penta5on)

First published: 10th March 2012

After I returned to Japan, we decided to keep regular meetings running every second Monday after my return to Japan. It's been consistently fun and successful, with a committed group of people who enjoy coming down. It's a great experience for me - I've had a unique opportunity to meet so many local people and make friends I never would have been able to outside of this environment. And, in the interests of clarity, it remains a free activity for anyone who wants to join - I'm not taking any pennies for this! I'm doing it simply because I enjoy it so much.

We've been mixing up the format with various activities - regular lectures, acting out short scripts, pictionary... even bringing in our own foods and baking (I made scones!).

 Not necessarily good scones.

I've also had some of my fellow ALTs down to do their own presentations (big props to Jasper Wood and Rainer Wessels). One of the best times we've had so far was a trip to a local American-style diner; Penta5on. On February 24th, we went to a live music night and enjoyed some pretty sweet tunes.

Evening trip to Penta5on!

Featuring Rainer Wessels' infatuation with Japanese MTV.

A special mention must be made for Taeko Manno; a fellow English teacher from Kozai Shogakkou who has been instrumental in putting the eikaiwa together and helping it run every week. As well as taking care of the initial booking of the hall, Manno-sensei always volunteers to bring along the ocha and cake, as well as taking care of the hall bookings and ensuring the smooth running of the group week by week - from handing out name badges to consistently translating any difficult English between members, she's a real asset and I couldn't be able to do this without her.

So, with my sincerest gratitude; Thank you, Manno-sensei.

Manno-sensei; a truly kind woman.

Okayama

First published: 6 Apr 2012

EDIT: Just to let everyone know, the missing SDHC card from Okayama has arrived! I'll be vlogging about my adventures at Hadaka Matsuri soon. I've also updated this entry with some additional images that were on the missing SDHC card. Enjoy!

Rainer Wessels at Okayama castle.

A little context before we begin...

The SDHC card with which I documented our first day of our weekend in Okayama was lost on the Saturday evening. I'd changed the cards in my Canon 60D as I'd filled one up to its limit at the Hadaka Matsuri festival, and it must have fallen from my pocket in amongst the rabble of the crowds. As such, I lost almost all of the video I had taken from the first of our two days in Okayama. As I was documenting Okayama via video rather than photography for a change, this was pretty disheartening.

However! Not is all lost. Having recently been in contact with the Okayama police, they have actually found the card (!) and sent me some sample pictures for me to check over to ensure it was mine. I have confirmed my ownership, and the card should now be on it's way back to me in Takamastu.

This means I'll be able to upload my footage from this event and discuss it in detail very soon. As such, more information on my time at Hadaka Matsuri will be posted at a later date.

As they say in Japanese; やった (Yatta)!

---


By the riverside boathouse in Okayama, looking up to Okayama castle.

If you travel by train through the Southern parts of Japan (perhaps on the way from Tokyo to Hiroshima, for example), chances are you'll have passed through Okayama. The train station there serves a major connecting point for everyone coming up from the island of Shikoku (along with my prefecture, Kagawa), as well as a point of exchange for many people either passing through, or perhaps boarding or departing the shinkansen (bullet train).

Thousands of people undoubtedly pass through Okayama every day without giving it a second thought, which is a real shame. It may well be an overlooked gem.

This February, my good friend Rainer Wessels and I decided to head to Okayama for the weekend to observe the famous Hadaka Matsuri event. While there are many Hadaka Matsuri events held across Japan, the one in Okayama is regarded as the largest and best in the country - undoubtedly as it is where the festival originated. What is it? Literally, the event translates as the 'Naked Man Festival'. It's an event where hundreds of men wearing only a fundoshi (the famous underwear associated with sumo wrestling) run through and around the streets of Sadaiji temple in the cold winter climate. The event culminates as all the men converge on Sadaiji temple at midnight, where they grapple for posession of enchanted wooden sticks thrown to them by the Shinto priests. Men lucky enough to grab one of these sticks are said to have a blessed year ahead.

Of course, this was also the perfect opportunity for us to explore Okayama for the first time, too. As we'd passed through on so many occasions, here was our chance at last to see Okayama beyond merely the confines of it's train station.

Posing in the stunning Kurokoen garden.

Staying in another fantastic capsule hotel (Rainer's first visit to such an establishment, and only my second) - complete with on-site onsen and a free breakfast! - we took quite a bit of time to arrive there as my printed map proved inaccurate and our iPhone searches proved fruitless. Eventually finding our hotel hiding along a small street with a distinctly European flavour. After finally checking in just before midday, we ventured back out into town with an aim to discover the famous Okayama castle.

Additionally, I was trying something new on this trip; deciding to focus on an attempt to capture video, in order to publish a video blog on YouTube to compliment my writing about Okayama. Rainer and I found ourselves 'vlogging' regularly as we walked along the streets.

As with Hiroshima, it transpired that the city had an impressive tram network in place - this time, with many of the trams painted in surprisingly bright colours. We had taken one of these trams earlier in an attempt to find our hotel; its interior felt quasi-futuristic, with impressive wooden furniture and a disctinctly modern curved design. It was a refreshing experience, and further makes me dread the monstrosity that Edinburgh City Council is undoubtedly cooking up back home in Scotland.

A rather odd message conveyed by a shop front in Okayama.

Walking down the city streets proved difficult to do without frequent stops. We found ourselves standing at length, observing and photographing such things including the colourful trams, a bus stop with branches wrapped around it by design, and an impressive crafts shop selling Japanese tableware, hand-made using ancient techniques. The most striking feature was the discovery of a large and gorgeous water fountain hiding away in an underground passageway, precisely at the time it started to snowed through the gap in the ceiling. Seeing this incredible specactle was breathtaking (though, sadly, this furthered my eventual frustration when the SDHC card containing these photographs went missing).

 Rainer stands by the fountain. An incredible spectacle.

As we turned the corner into Okayama castle, we were both floored at the beautiful expanse of water before us. Okayama castle overlooks a beautiful river flow, on which the other side sat the famous Kurokoen gardens. Having done some research of Okayama before coming, both Okayama castle and Kurokoen were on the agenda. However, despite knowledge of their proximity, nothing had informed me of the scale of grand expanse in front of me and the terrifyingly narrow bridge connection the two locations. As we had decided to see Okayama castle on one day, and Kurokoen the next, we determined we would return here on Sunday for a boat trip across the water.

As a personal aside, my heart leapt when I saw the swan boats sitting on the edge. I was reminded instantly of the swan boats at the Beveridge Park in my hometown of Kirkcaldy. It was a little reminder of home, and I felt a brief but warm flurry of nostalgia.

Swan boats! Just like the Beveridge Park in my home of Kirkcaldy.

Despite my protests, Rainer opted for a traditional rowing boat instead.

The imposing presence of Okayama Castle was magnificent.

The famous (and large) Okayama castle.

One of the few black castles in Japan.

As we turned the corner on the path to the castle, its sheer scale impressed upon us immediately. With it's rich black colour and well-kept grounds, I felt stricken with a respectful awe. One can only imagine how it would have appeared to the Okayama citizens of old. The open entrance-way allowed access to a wide expanse of ground, with an open pit which allowed people to walk down and lay their hand on the old castle foundations underground. Standing in this pit was quite unique - the depth and rock caused the weakest voice to echo loudly from all sides. The sensation was bizarre for the ears. We walked up old stairs under a grand archway to the terrace, and found ourselves walking towards the imposing, stark front of the castle.

Like Hiroshima Castle only one month prior, Okayama Castle delighted me with the wealth of history it presented. Interestingly for a site of historical preservation, a lift shaft (elevator, for you Americans) had been installed, allowing instant access to the upper floors of the castle museum. Filled with samurai outfits and preserved artefacts, it was yet another excellent opportunity to immerse myself into the history of Japan. One of the most interesting displays was a old system of transport which had been preserved; a sort of black carrier with handles at either end, to be carried while an individual rested within.

After posing for a set of photographs within, Rainer insisted upon attempting to lift it - at which point I hid in the corner.

 Rainer, prior to an attempt to lift the thing he's sitting in.

To be fair, he actually did raise it off the ground.

Taking an udon lunch at the base of the castle, we headed back to the capsule hotel in preparation for the Hadaka Matsuri. Details of that event will be posted in another blog post, but the important information is that whilst there my SDHC card disappeared, and with it all of the day's footage.

*

A small collection of shops, situated by the river in Okayama.

Taking shots like this on the river was a rare opportunity to seize.

 On the water in Okayama.

On Sunday, as we were heading back to the same location en route to Kurokoen, Rainer and I decided to make a second visit to Okayama castle so that I might recapture at least some of the photographs I had lost (and I do have to give Rainer thanks for indulging me in this!). Luckily, the sky was actually clearer, meaning perhaps these shots were in fact better than those I'd captured the day before.

After this short detour (which was rather pleasant, actually!), we returned to our original plan and made our way to the riverside boat hire. In a desperate plea to relive my memories of Kirkcaldy, I had begged Rainer to go out onto the river with me in a swan boat, but after much debate the decision was made to take a row-boat instead. I suppose I was satisfied; it had been years since I'd been in a row-boat, and the experience was quite a thrill. Though I managed to take a few pictures whilst out on the water, I was forced to put my camera away as the water splashed all around us and created a hazard for its safety (not that I don't trust Canon's 'weather-sealing', of course).

The current, however, proved too strong for us to make much headway, and we returned to shore for a traditional afternoon beer in a small cafe situated just up from the boathouse. We sampled the local Okayama beer - which also came in a quirky fruited variety - and relaxed with a gorgeous view of the castle through the window before us. It was the perfect antitode for my stress the previous evening, and my frustration over losing so many wonderful images of this beautiful city.

A gorgeous and sweet beer from Okayama.

One of my favourite photographs of the weekend.

This was a serene moment. Calm, relaxed, and with a chilled and refreshing beer. The Okayama beer was delicious indeed; so much so that Rainer and I both bought extra bottles to take home with us. I haven't been able to locate it since, but you can be sure I'll be picking up more bottles the next time I'm in the area.

Leaving the cafe in a mood of tranquilty, we walked only a few feet forward to find ourselves in the glorious Kurokoen gardens.

The majestic Kurokoen gardens in Okayama.

This park is regarded as one of the three most beautiful in Japan.

 

I reckon there should be some hobbits around here.

I'm a man who lives in Takamatsu, and is constantly informed about the beauty of Ritsurin koen and it's ranking as one of the most beautiful gardens in Japan. As much affection as I have for Ritsurin koen, it was a thrill to stumble upon somewhere that not only rivalled it in beauty, but perhaps even trumped it.

  

Children feed the giant koi in Kurokoen park.

These gardens were luscious; perhaps not as large as Ritsurin in scale, but equally grand in display. Walkways lead off in all directions, and small little islands sat on the water, flanked on all sides by the giant koi fish. So much wonder was stacked into these grounds that words simply aren't able to do it justice. I hope my photographs manage to make up for my inability to express the distilled essence of peace that we found here. The grounds were surely artificial, of course, but that was part of it's wonder. It was the same unique Japanese creativity that was in sync with the bonsai mentality; moulding and designing the natural world into something all-new and brilliant.

Momotaro Candy!

Rainer Wessels relaxes in Kurokoen park.

Something I haven't mentioned up until now is Okayama's obsession with peaches. At first, it may seem somewhat bizarre; put simply, why peaches? However, Okayama has a very specific reason for it's quirk.

The local myth of Momotaro goes like this; a peach drifted along a river until it was discovered by an elderly couple. This peach gave birth to a small boy, named Momotaro, who the couple raised as their own son for many years. Some time later, many ogres that lived on the nearby island of Onigashima (in the Seito Inland Sea) had begun attacking the nearby villiages. Momotaro, now grown into a brave warrior, set off on a quest to chase away the ogres. On his way, he met a bird, a dog and a monkey, who joined his party in their quest. Momotaro and his companions were successful, and he returned home with the ogre's gold, which he beseeched to the old couple as his reward for raising him.

I love this story. And, accordingly, it was a small thrill to discover packets of Momotaro peach candy being served in the stores around Kurokoen near the end of our visit. Buying a few sets for myself and one as a gift for Rainer, it was a final cap on an otherwise (mostly) perfect couple of days.

 Momotaro; the iconic peach-boy warrior of Okayama myth.

Amazake, a popular peach-based alcholic drink in Okayama.

Needless to say, it was of course sampled.

There are so many amazing images that I want to share, but unfortunately, I can't at present (this isn't an ego-centric claim to say that my photography is of an exceptionally high quality, but that what they contain were simply wonderful sights to see). Instead, you'll just have to take my word for it, and I'll show you those images as soon as I can.

Having said that, don't just take it from me. Okayama is a beautiful and underrated place amongst the JET community, filled with it's own unique attractions and interesting sights. The next time you pass through Okayama station, why not see if you can make a small detour on your journey to venture out into this incredible little city.

I guarantee that you wont be disappointed.