EDIT: Just to let everyone know, the missing SDHC card from Okayama has arrived! I'll be vlogging about my adventures at Hadaka Matsuri soon. I've also updated this entry with some additional images that were on the missing SDHC card. Enjoy!
Rainer Wessels at Okayama castle.
A little context before we begin...
The SDHC card with which I documented our first day of our weekend in Okayama was lost on the Saturday evening. I'd changed the cards in my Canon 60D as I'd filled one up to its limit at the Hadaka Matsuri festival, and it must have fallen from my pocket in amongst the rabble of the crowds. As such, I lost almost all of the video I had taken from the first of our two days in Okayama. As I was documenting Okayama via video rather than photography for a change, this was pretty disheartening.
However! Not is all lost. Having recently been in contact with the Okayama police, they have actually found the card (!) and sent me some sample pictures for me to check over to ensure it was mine. I have confirmed my ownership, and the card should now be on it's way back to me in Takamastu.
This means I'll be able to upload my footage from this event and discuss it in detail very soon. As such, more information on my time at Hadaka Matsuri will be posted at a later date.
As they say in Japanese; やった (Yatta)!
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By the riverside boathouse in Okayama, looking up to Okayama castle.
By the riverside boathouse in Okayama, looking up to Okayama castle.
If you travel by train through the Southern parts of Japan (perhaps on the way from Tokyo to Hiroshima, for example), chances are you'll have passed through Okayama. The train station there serves a major connecting point for everyone coming up from the island of Shikoku (along with my prefecture, Kagawa), as well as a point of exchange for many people either passing through, or perhaps boarding or departing the shinkansen (bullet train).
Thousands of people undoubtedly pass through Okayama every day without giving it a second thought, which is a real shame. It may well be an overlooked gem.
Of course, this was also the perfect opportunity for us to explore Okayama for the first time, too. As we'd passed through on so many occasions, here was our chance at last to see Okayama beyond merely the confines of it's train station.
Posing in the stunning Kurokoen garden.
Additionally, I was trying something new on this trip; deciding to focus on an attempt to capture video, in order to publish a video blog on YouTube to compliment my writing about Okayama. Rainer and I found ourselves 'vlogging' regularly as we walked along the streets.
As with Hiroshima, it transpired that the city had an impressive tram network in place - this time, with many of the trams painted in surprisingly bright colours. We had taken one of these trams earlier in an attempt to find our hotel; its interior felt quasi-futuristic, with impressive wooden furniture and a disctinctly modern curved design. It was a refreshing experience, and further makes me dread the monstrosity that Edinburgh City Council is undoubtedly cooking up back home in Scotland.
A rather odd message conveyed by a shop front in Okayama.
Walking down the city streets proved difficult to do without frequent stops. We found ourselves standing at length, observing and photographing such things including the colourful trams, a bus stop with branches wrapped around it by design, and an impressive crafts shop selling Japanese tableware, hand-made using ancient techniques. The most striking feature was the discovery of a large and gorgeous water fountain hiding away in an underground passageway, precisely at the time it started to snowed through the gap in the ceiling. Seeing this incredible specactle was breathtaking (though, sadly, this furthered my eventual frustration when the SDHC card containing these photographs went missing).
Rainer stands by the fountain. An incredible spectacle.
As we turned the corner into Okayama castle, we were both floored at the beautiful expanse of water before us. Okayama castle overlooks a beautiful river flow, on which the other side sat the famous Kurokoen gardens. Having done some research of Okayama before coming, both Okayama castle and Kurokoen were on the agenda. However, despite knowledge of their proximity, nothing had informed me of the scale of grand expanse in front of me and the terrifyingly narrow bridge connection the two locations. As we had decided to see Okayama castle on one day, and Kurokoen the next, we determined we would return here on Sunday for a boat trip across the water.
As a personal aside, my heart leapt when I saw the swan boats sitting on the edge. I was reminded instantly of the swan boats at the Beveridge Park in my hometown of Kirkcaldy. It was a little reminder of home, and I felt a brief but warm flurry of nostalgia.
Swan boats! Just like the Beveridge Park in my home of Kirkcaldy.
Despite my protests, Rainer opted for a traditional rowing boat instead.
The imposing presence of Okayama Castle was magnificent.
The famous (and large) Okayama castle.
One of the few black castles in Japan.
As we turned the corner on the path to the castle, its sheer scale impressed upon us immediately. With it's rich black colour and well-kept grounds, I felt stricken with a respectful awe. One can only imagine how it would have appeared to the Okayama citizens of old. The open entrance-way allowed access to a wide expanse of ground, with an open pit which allowed people to walk down and lay their hand on the old castle foundations underground. Standing in this pit was quite unique - the depth and rock caused the weakest voice to echo loudly from all sides. The sensation was bizarre for the ears. We walked up old stairs under a grand archway to the terrace, and found ourselves walking towards the imposing, stark front of the castle.
Like Hiroshima Castle only one month prior, Okayama Castle delighted me with the wealth of history it presented. Interestingly for a site of historical preservation, a lift shaft (elevator, for you Americans) had been installed, allowing instant access to the upper floors of the castle museum. Filled with samurai outfits and preserved artefacts, it was yet another excellent opportunity to immerse myself into the history of Japan. One of the most interesting displays was a old system of transport which had been preserved; a sort of black carrier with handles at either end, to be carried while an individual rested within.
After posing for a set of photographs within, Rainer insisted upon attempting to lift it - at which point I hid in the corner.
Rainer, prior to an attempt to lift the thing he's sitting in.
To be fair, he actually did raise it off the ground.
Taking an udon lunch at the base of the castle, we headed back to the capsule hotel in preparation for the Hadaka Matsuri. Details of that event will be posted in another blog post, but the important information is that whilst there my SDHC card disappeared, and with it all of the day's footage.
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A small collection of shops, situated by the river in Okayama.
Taking shots like this on the river was a rare opportunity to seize.
On the water in Okayama.
On Sunday, as we were heading back to the same location en route to Kurokoen, Rainer and I decided to make a second visit to Okayama castle so that I might recapture at least some of the photographs I had lost (and I do have to give Rainer thanks for indulging me in this!). Luckily, the sky was actually clearer, meaning perhaps these shots were in fact better than those I'd captured the day before.
After this short detour (which was rather pleasant, actually!), we returned to our original plan and made our way to the riverside boat hire. In a desperate plea to relive my memories of Kirkcaldy, I had begged Rainer to go out onto the river with me in a swan boat, but after much debate the decision was made to take a row-boat instead. I suppose I was satisfied; it had been years since I'd been in a row-boat, and the experience was quite a thrill. Though I managed to take a few pictures whilst out on the water, I was forced to put my camera away as the water splashed all around us and created a hazard for its safety (not that I don't trust Canon's 'weather-sealing', of course).
The current, however, proved too strong for us to make much headway, and we returned to shore for a traditional afternoon beer in a small cafe situated just up from the boathouse. We sampled the local Okayama beer - which also came in a quirky fruited variety - and relaxed with a gorgeous view of the castle through the window before us. It was the perfect antitode for my stress the previous evening, and my frustration over losing so many wonderful images of this beautiful city.
A gorgeous and sweet beer from Okayama.
One of my favourite photographs of the weekend.
This was a serene moment. Calm, relaxed, and with a chilled and refreshing beer. The Okayama beer was delicious indeed; so much so that Rainer and I both bought extra bottles to take home with us. I haven't been able to locate it since, but you can be sure I'll be picking up more bottles the next time I'm in the area.
Leaving the cafe in a mood of tranquilty, we walked only a few feet forward to find ourselves in the glorious Kurokoen gardens.
The majestic Kurokoen gardens in Okayama.
This park is regarded as one of the three most beautiful in Japan.
I reckon there should be some hobbits around here.
I'm a man who lives in Takamatsu, and is constantly informed about the beauty of Ritsurin koen and it's ranking as one of the most beautiful gardens in Japan. As much affection as I have for Ritsurin koen, it was a thrill to stumble upon somewhere that not only rivalled it in beauty, but perhaps even trumped it.
Children feed the giant koi in Kurokoen park.
These gardens were luscious; perhaps not as large as Ritsurin in scale, but equally grand in display. Walkways lead off in all directions, and small little islands sat on the water, flanked on all sides by the giant koi fish. So much wonder was stacked into these grounds that words simply aren't able to do it justice. I hope my photographs manage to make up for my inability to express the distilled essence of peace that we found here. The grounds were surely artificial, of course, but that was part of it's wonder. It was the same unique Japanese creativity that was in sync with the bonsai mentality; moulding and designing the natural world into something all-new and brilliant.
Momotaro Candy!
Rainer Wessels relaxes in Kurokoen park.
Something I haven't mentioned up until now is Okayama's obsession with peaches. At first, it may seem somewhat bizarre; put simply, why peaches? However, Okayama has a very specific reason for it's quirk.
The local myth of Momotaro goes like this; a peach drifted along a river until it was discovered by an elderly couple. This peach gave birth to a small boy, named Momotaro, who the couple raised as their own son for many years. Some time later, many ogres that lived on the nearby island of Onigashima (in the Seito Inland Sea) had begun attacking the nearby villiages. Momotaro, now grown into a brave warrior, set off on a quest to chase away the ogres. On his way, he met a bird, a dog and a monkey, who joined his party in their quest. Momotaro and his companions were successful, and he returned home with the ogre's gold, which he beseeched to the old couple as his reward for raising him.
I love this story. And, accordingly, it was a small thrill to discover packets of Momotaro peach candy being served in the stores around Kurokoen near the end of our visit. Buying a few sets for myself and one as a gift for Rainer, it was a final cap on an otherwise (mostly) perfect couple of days.
Momotaro; the iconic peach-boy warrior of Okayama myth.
Amazake, a popular peach-based alcholic drink in Okayama.
Needless to say, it was of course sampled.
There are so many amazing images that I want to share, but unfortunately, I can't at present (this isn't an ego-centric claim to say that my photography is of an exceptionally high quality, but that what they contain were simply wonderful sights to see). Instead, you'll just have to take my word for it, and I'll show you those images as soon as I can.
Having said that, don't just take it from me. Okayama is a beautiful and underrated place amongst the JET community, filled with it's own unique attractions and interesting sights. The next time you pass through Okayama station, why not see if you can make a small detour on your journey to venture out into this incredible little city.
I guarantee that you wont be disappointed.
