Around Shikoku with 'Why Not': Tokushima and Kochi

First published: 30 Apr 2013

An early Sunday morning in Kochi.

As I mentioned in my previous post, Taylor and I travelled to Tokushima for the purpose of water rafting for the first time. It was an incredible experience, and you can read all about it here.

Water-rafting = bantz!

That trip was within the wider context of a weekend trip around both Tokushima and Kochi, as run by the 'WhyNot' group that operates within Japan. As I mentioned in my water-rafting post, the 'WhyNot' group operates tours across Japan that encourage interaction between groups of (mostly young) foreigners in Japan with other Japanese citizens, in order to explore and experience Japan while forming social bonds. It's a good little enterprise that I hadn't heard of before this trip. Taylor introduced me to the group for the purposes of water-rafting, but we took the opportunity to see a bit more of the wider areas in Tokushima and Kochi as well.

Travelling with the 'Why Not' group in Kochi.

One note; I didn't bring my Canon 60D along for the trip! A small regret that I could only use my iPhone to photograph these beautiful places.

The Anpanman Train

Children's TV characters and trains.

You'd think Thomas would have been the obvious choice?

One Friday evening in May, Taylor made her way up from Yamaguchi-ken (in the far West of Japan) to my hometown of Takamatsu. We indulged in some ramen noodles and kipped down for an early start the next day to Tokushima, taking the famous Anpanman train (!) from Kagawa to the pick-up point.

The Anpanman trains are a pretty excellent exhibit; plastering the face of the popular Japanese children's character onto regular JR trains that operate in the four prefectures of Shikoku. The trains are all Anpanman themed, full of customised chairs, roof decorations and even children's play areas. Each station and train on the line has it's own stamp to press into a stamp book you can pick up at the Shikoku stations. A fun little thing for the kids, but you'd be surprised how many grown men in suits you can see stopping to stamp their Anpanman books! Naturally, I made sure to pick up my own copy and begin my collection.

You wouldn't see this on ScotRail.

Of course, we made our way to Tokushima where we were collected by the WhyNot group, and of course we started our day with some water-rafting. After an exciting (and certainly wet) afternoon traversing the rapids, we returned to the bus - hair dripping wet - and began our evening travel to Kochi.

Overnight in Kochi

Our accommodation for the evening:

an overnight stay in a former school.

You may be interested to know that I didn't actually know we were going to Kochi during our trip. Taylor had mentioned "water rafting in Tokushima" and I hadn't really looked into it any more than that! It wasn't until after we'd left the prefecture that, when talking to fellow travellers, I discovered we'd just left Kochi. Talk about being slow on the uptake!

Travelling on the big travel bus.

After a trip to a local supermarket for supplies, we arrived at a former school somewhere in a valley in Kochi. The school was just as it was; full of classrooms, blackboards and school corridors, but had been turned into a small youth hostel of sorts which the 'WhyNot' group had booked out for the weekend. It was certainly an unusual venue! We spread our futons out across several former classrooms, with boys separated from girls.

Unchanged from it's former school days.

A delightfully spooky setting...

The corridors were dimly lit and the whole place had an unusual, creepy atmosphere. I certainly wouldn't like to be there alone at night, as it felt a bit like a horror film set! Seeing rows and rows of empty classrooms with darkened and inaccessible rooms set a bizarre tone which we weren't expecting. However, the company was good and plentiful, with everyone making light of the situation. I think it only added to the unique nature of the experience, and I wouldn't have traded the location for anywhere else. I loved it.

Getting creative with the blackboards.

After a quick shower, I joined everyone downstairs for a large barbeque party in the school grounds. All of the guests on the trip were present, along with the tour guides. As night had fallen in, the grounds were lit by the light of several fires, and we proceeded to drink merrily and indulge in social engagements. I met plenty of interesting people - most of whom were fellow ALTs on both JET and Interac - and even managed to hold a conversation in French! The only downside was the lengthy trek to the toilets on the far corner of the school; very isolated, and in a very dark area.

As the evening progressed, different groups went their different ways, but I stayed up to the early hours discussing Scottish independence with a group of Irish and American ALTs.

Up early the next day - and not quite ready to face the day - we trekked downstairs to the school grounds where we posed for photographs in a large group. Unfortunately, we were unable to use the showers in the morning (my cynical nature made me suspect it was an excuse to get us on the bus faster). As we trekked to the bus, the scale and beauty of where we were stretched out before us - absolutely stunning in the morning sun.

Iya Kazurabashi Rope Bridge (Tokushima)

  

After a lengthy bus ride (and plenty of conversations upon it), we arrived back in Tokushima prefecture by the Iya Kazurabashi Rope Bridge.
The bridge was certainly an interesting sight to see, placed in the remote Iya valley and with apparently an unclear and conflicting history. From what my research has told me, this bridge is one of three remaining bridges from a full set of thirteen (though I didn't see any others nearby).

Being the largest bridge, Iya Kazurabahsi seemed to have turned into quite the tourist spot, and the interwoven vines which make the bridge are now supported by concealed steel cables which make sure the whole thing doesn't collapse. Certainly good to know, but walking along the bridge, I couldn't help but notice how wide the gaps between the footholds were!

Oh my...

After crossing the bridge, the group took some time to relax in and around the valley below. Many people stopped at a waterfall just on the other side of the bridge, which offered a nice bit of sightseeing before moving down the rocks to the valley. It was a warm day with cool water, and plenty of people went barefoot among the rocks or dipped their toes in the water. It was a very pleasant setting. Most people who exposed their feet to the water - including myself - discovered them to be covered with strange, tiny black creatures (leeches?) which had lodged themselves to our feet. Everyone was constantly trying to remove them, though they seemed fairly harmless.

I'm not gonna lie; I felt like a much-needed dip

after failing to have a shower that morning...

A small anecdote is that Taylor almost lost one of her shoes in the running water. It was retrieved just in time by another boy on the trip, just before it swept away for good. Hopefully her feet weren't too damp for the rest of the day!

Beautiful.

Fighting the fishies.

The surrounding area had a few little shops and restaurants which offered venues for lunch. I picked up a smoked fish - fully intact - and ate it off the stick, which was actually delicious! I sat with a few people I'd met the previous day in a small cafe to eat, where another girl ate far more of her fish than I did. The area felt very traditional and "Japanese", despite its accommodation of tourists.

Surprisingly pleasant.

Naruto Whirlpools (Tokushima)

The Naruto whirlpools beneath the Onaruto bridge.

Our final stop for the day was at the Naruto whirlpools situated beneath the huge Onaruto bridge (which was very reminiscent for me of the Forth Road Bridge back in Scotland). The whirlpools (known as "naruto" in Japanese) are a popular tourist attraction in the city of Naruto - I presume the city was named after them. We would be taking a boat tour out to see and experience the whirlpools first hand. A service runs constantly everyday, as - surprisingly - the whirlpools are apparently very safe and pose little danger to the boats.

Photo from a Google search.

We made our way out to see the whirlpools, getting a gorgeous view of the surrounding scenery in the process. While we could certainly see the thrashing water, I'm told that the best views of the whirlpools are actually from above, and I must admit that I found it difficult to distinguish any circular patterns. It was certainly thrilling to get so close to the waters and to see the waves and splashes so intimately, but I feel a return journey is necessary to complete the visual spectacle the whirlpools are said to give. It was unfortunately very difficult for me to take any satisfactory photographs!

A bit dark.

Following our visit the whirlpools, we returned to the bus stop where I would have to make my departure. As I lived in Shikoku, it was easier for me to take the train service in Tokushima back to Kagawa prefecture and my home Takamatsu. I said my farewells, and sat waving at the bus stop as I watched the 'WhyNot' group - and Taylor - disappear.

---

It was an enlightening weekend. Shikoku is the smallest of Japan's islands, and yet because I live here I rarely explore it as much as I do other parts of Japan. As well as being an opportunity to meet some new friends and enjoy some extreme sports, the trip served as a small reminder that there's still a lot to do here on my own doorstep, and definitely encouraged me to try and see a bit more.

A big thank you to the 'WhyNot' group - they were exceptionally well-organised, very inclusive of all of the weekend travellers, and definitely the best travel service I've been with in Japan. I'd recommend them to anyone.

Water-Rafting in Tokushima

First published: 10 Apr 2013

Water-rafting!

A well-known and famous past-time in Tokushima is the water-rafting, something which I have always been keen to do but until recently had never had the chance to. Many of my friends in Kagawa had already experienced it, but until last year I hadn't had the opportunity to pop over to the prefecture next door and try it for myself.

Chilling with Taylor.

Meet the team.

That all changed last Summer just a few weeks before my birthday. My friend Taylor-Gabrielle Moyer, with whom I'd travelled to Hiroshima and Miyajima back in January (and whose blog you can read here), wanted to try water-rafting in Tokushima with the 'Why Not' group, operating with the company 'Happy Raft'. It was a fantastic opportunity, and I happily agreed to be her companion.

Wet-lense.

Coming along with the 'WhyNot' group, there was a great mix of both Japanese and foreign participants. Starting just after mid-day, we headed down in groups of six or so down the Yoshio River in Iwahara, Ootoyo-cho (which, according to the Happy Raft website, is right in the middle of Shikoku!). Each raft was assigned an instructor / guide, who made sure we made our way safely down the river. Instructions were provided fully in English, as were life-jackets and helmets (thankfully!).

Pre-rafting lunch!

If you look carefully, you can see that I'm caught staring at the camera.

Needless to say, it was brilliant. There was splashing a-plenty, and lots of deliberate falling / pulling into the water. The party also stopped for a brief bit of high jumping from a small cliff edge into a deep pool of water. The fall was much longer than anticipated, and every one created a high splash (I may or may not have screamed when I flailed in).

Dignified.

There were also plenty of rapids for us to travel down, where the river steepened and the water rushed down dips and splashed against heavy rocks. At times like this, we'd almost lose complete control of the raft and have to simply duck in anticipation of an inevitable collision with the waves as we raced down with the flow. It was thrilling.

Exhilarating!

The 'Why Not' trip actually took place over a full weekend and encompassed a lot of sightseeing in Tokushima, too! More on that later, though. For now, here's some photographs of our time water-rafting (as well as falling in the water!).

This really was a fantastic experience. I loved it, and would recommend this day out to anyone (so long as you don't have a heart condition, pregnancy, nor mind a bit of water!). Check out Happy Raft here if you're interested!

A fun day out for all.

For more information on the WhyNot group and some of the activities they organise monthly across Japan, check out their website here too!

Finally, you can read Taylor's blogging on the subject here and here!

AJET Burns Night in Tokushima

First published: July 24th 2013

Richard and I perform 'Address to a Haggis'.

Towards the end of January, the Kagawa JETs headed over to Tokushima to take part in the annual Burns Night event.

Naturally, as a Scotsman, I was quite excited by the event.

As you probably know, Robert Burns (1759 - 1796) was a celebrated Scottish poet from Ayrshire whose legacy is felt to this day around the globe. As well as writing some of the well known classics (Auld Lang Syne, To a Louse, etc.), he was famous for his vivid use of Scots: something of an often unrepresented voice in the the arts. In Scotland, Burns Night is essentially a national holiday: a celebration of Scottish culture complete with haggis, ceilidh dancing and the Saltire et al. Internationally, Burns Nights (or Burns Suppers, as we call them) are also seen a celebration of the arts and poetry as well as of Scottish culture.

Robert Burns (1759 - 1796): "Scotland's favourite son."

Richard Kinsella (from Glasgow) and myself would be the two Scotsmen from Kagawa in attendance. As the event was a relaxed one organised by the local JETs, I decided to wear my Scotland football shirt for the occasion. While Richard wore his waistcoat, he stopped short of the full kilt regalia due to - if I remember - the intense cold of Japan in winter, which is far, far colder than Scotland (something I will contest to anyone).

Matt Katch wows the crowd with his powerful monologue.

The event took place in a log cabin in the mountains of Yoshinogawa, overlooking a river below. Most of the JETs had arrived in the early evening, though I arrived a little later and was granted a lift to the site by a lovely Tokushima JET named Adam. When I walked through the door, we were given a brief intro by the local AJET leader Mari, before the event kicked off with Richard and I doing our rendition of the famous Burns poem 'Address to a Haggis'. Sadly, there was no haggis at this particular event for us to address, but it was still a lot of fun to speak in full Scots to a room full of bewildered international JETs and flummoxed Japanese natives.

The Scotsmen read some Burns.

Wha's like us? Gie few (an they're aw deid).

Our initial Scottish presentation was accompanied by several arts performances by many of the local JETs and Japanese contingent. There were short monologues, poetry recitals, skits, live music and more. There was also quite the delightful buffet prepared by the locals, which I was more than happy to indulge in. A particular highlight was a dramatic short story written by fellow Kagawa JET and US citizen Matt Katch, which I thoroughly enjoyed and left chills around the room.

Anthony! Bridging the Scots and New Zealanders.

For me, the best moment of the evening came when Tokushima JET Anthony Hutchison from New Zealand stepped into the room wearing a kilt complete with his bagpipes. Turned out, Anthony was a trained bagpiper with Scottish family connections (to be expected with a name like 'Hutchison', of course!). Anthony treated us all to a performance with his pipes, and was happy to pose for a picture with the Scottish contingent.

A trio of Scotsmen (with a Kiwi twist).

As the night drifted on we moved back to our individual cabins (where my own group of Kagawa-ites attempted to play drinking games with almost no drink). An entertaining way to spend the remainder of the evening.

The view from the cabins in the morning.

The following morning, we made our way to the Yoshinogawa Highway Oasis to use the onsen (hot spring baths) to clean ourselves up before the travel home. In addition to an udon breakfast (yum), most of the Kagawa crew treated themselves to some ice cream and milk.

The Yoshinogawa Highway Oasis. Image from here.

Danny and I indulge in ice cream at the onsen.

All in all, a nice little opportunity to indulge in some Scottish culture and the arts and make some new friends. A great little social event to kick off the new year.

Tokushima Awa Odori 2011

Awa Odori 2011.

The Awa Odori Matsuri in Tokushima was my second experience of a Japanese summer festival following my time at Sakaide Matsuri.

Once again, I was completely blown away by what was a similar yet completely distinct event. This event was a street dancing festival - the biggest one in Japan - and featured marching musicians and dancers (known as "ren") with two distinct styles of dancing; nagashi for the day-time, and zomeki (which is less restrained) in the evening. I honestly didn't know what to expect, but what I did see was fantastic.

The dancers and musicians make their way through the streets.

Many of the female "ren" wear a unique "amigasa" hat.

As with the Sakaide Matsuri festival, we arrived early in the evening, but already there was a hugely vibrant atmosphere and a very crowded environment; far more so than in Sakaide. Dancers were intermixed with members of the general audience, and we brushed past countless people in their performance clothes as they walked around in among the crowds.

One of the "ren" checks her phone before performing.

We certainly didn't have to wait long, though, before dancers started to appear marching along the roads. Before we knew it, we were standing with a clear view to the main roads, which were filled with row upon row of ren of varying ages. The dancing appeared very traditional, with very specific moves choreographed in a consistent looping pattern, but the atmosphere wasn't the slightest bit severe. The people were clearly having fun, and the dance was certainly merry in it's own way.

A younger group marches down the streets.

The event was a great opportunity to meet plenty of new ALTs who I had previously only met or seen briefly in the past. Many of them had put in a lot of effort and had decided to wear their own traditional summer yukata (Japanese summer clothes). Just watching the scenes unfolding around us, there was certainly plenty to talk about!

Team after team flows gracefully along the roads.

The dancing continued with no end in sight, with one team finishing and another following it up almost immediately. The constant flow and stream of dancers up and down the street - as far as the eye could see - was mesmerizing (not least because of all the vibrant colours they were wearing).

The dancing continues into the night.

The colours on the uniforms stood out brilliantly in the bright lights.

As the night wore on, we started to see a few stranger sights. Many people in costumes started to appear on the streets, and we even found ourselves being asked to dance in the street. We happily obliged.

A wild BLOB appeared.

Indeed, as the night went on, things seemed to get more and more zany and strange. The atmosphere was very welcoming and fun, but it did seem to become a bit of a free-for-all. What had started as a very cultural experience seemed to descend into a lot of costumes and (I think) post-modern irony. It was definitely amusing, but not at all what I had expected to see. I imagined that the festival would be a very respectful and serious affair, but in actual fact it turned out to be a lot lighter in tone than I had imagined.

Might want to see a doctor about that, mate.

There are no sacred cows at this festival (pun-intended).

A cow on wheels...?

This has all gone a bit odd.

In particular, Edwin and I ended up dancing in a big circle with around twenty Japanese people we had never met before. They weren't dancing in the traditional style at all; this was merely a party, and they were having fun. Feeling carefree and loose, it was a great bonding experience with people who we could probably only usually have the most limited of interactions with.

Drunken dancing.

Ed mixes with the locals.

We enjoyed the festival around until the early hours of the morning, until it finally started to dissipate. Not to worry, though; the ALTs would be spending the night in Tokushima and visiting a few of the local bars. It was all a bit surreal, as none of the bars seemed to ever have a closing time, and we could happily sit indoors until the first train arrived to take us home in the early hours of the morning.

I called my mother back home in Scotland midway through our time out at the bars. It was almost impossible to describe what I'd seen.

Matt, Rainer, and... this guy.

Good times with randoms.

Enjoying the Awa Odori festival in the neighboring city of Tokushima.

Awa-Odori is definitely a thoroughly recommended experience, and one that manages to mix both a very traditional side of Japanese culture with a very modern sense of fun and relaxed self-deprecation. It's absolutely worth visiting.